Reinventing While Preserving Continuity

Rolex’s 2023 collection is all about the desire to reinvent the brand while preserving a sense of continuity and tradition

By MW India Desk


The new lacquered dial of this Oyster Perpetual in 31mm, 36mm and 41mm is filled with coloured bubbles that reunite the five hues introduced to the range in 2020. This effervescent, euphoric design has been created using masterful techniques in strictly controlled conditions and requires the utmost precision at every stage to create this profusion of colour.


To mark the 60th anniversary of the watch, Rolex has revisited the entire range — a high-precision rework involving the case, the dial, as well as the movement. The restyled watch exudes greater visual harmony with the dial graphics striking a new balance, as graceful lines of light elegantly reflect from the lugs and the sides of the redesigned middle case. The Cerachrom bezel is edged with the same metal as the middle case. The new 4131 movement incorporates the Chronergy escapement, the Paraflex shock absorbers and a new oscillating weight with optimised ball bearing. In the platinum version, the oscillating weight is made from 18K yellow gold, which is visible through the transparent case back — a first for theOyster Perpetual collection — on a mother- of-pearl plate of a just 0.15mm thick. It has a star-studded tourbillon within a diamond- set crescent at 12 o’clock.


Inspired by one of the first Rolex watches with a Perpetual rotor, this completely new time piece in the Perpetual collection reinterprets the traditional wristwatch through the Rolex avant-garde lens. The name ‘1908’ is a reference to the date the ‘Rolex’ trademark was officially registered in Switzerland in the last century. The shape of the hands, the faceted hour markers, and the bezel — domed and with fine fluting —are emblematic of Rolex’s heritage. The 1908 is available in 18K yellow or white gold, with an intense white or intense black dial, and is distinctive for its slim case. The transparent case reveals a Rolex Côtes de Genève decoration of the specially made Calibre 7140 movement with its cut-out oscillating weight in 18K yellow gold. The timepiece comes with an alligator leather strap in black or brown, with a green inner lining.


This dual time zone watch collection has been updated with numerous technical and aesthetic enhancements. 18K white gold makes a comeback on a version with a bright black dial on an Oysterflex bracelet. New dial colours include a delicate mint green offered on the white Rolesor version and an elegant blue-green on the variant in 18K Everose gold with an Oyster bracelet. The Calibre 9002 movement comes with new advances in Rolex technology including Chronergy escapement and an oscillating weight with optimised ball bearing for heightened performance.


The GMT-Master II is available this year in two new versions— yellow Rolesor and 18K yellow gold — with a Cerachrom bezel insert in grey and black ceramic, a new colour combination. The harmonious contrast between the gleaming gold of the Jubilee bracelet and the two-colour bezel with its dark, muted tones evokes the path of the sun and the alternation of day and night. This elegance is elevated by a black lacquer dial and a 24-hour hand for the second time zone indication i 18K yellow gold.


This new 40mm model expands the Explorer range. Simple, robust and corrosion-resistant, the new Explorer 40 is crafted from the Rolex patented Oystersteel alloy. It comes with satin finishes on the middle case, bracelet, and clasp, with the light reflections from the polished flanks adding to the aesthetics. The Oyster bracelet is equipped with Oysterlock clasp and Easylink comfort extension link.


The new Yacht-Master 42 comes in a case and bracelet made from RLX titanium, a lightweight alloy with excellent corrosion- resistance properties and high mechanical strength. The combination of polished, high- sheen and technical satin finishes produces a subtle play of textures and light between the gleam of the polished crown guard, the high sheen lustre on the top edges of the lugs, and the matt grain of the technical satin finish. This is the second Rolex in RLX titanium after the Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge.


The new Day-Date 36 comes with dials made of decorative stone in shimmering tones that evoke the atmosphere of the Mediterranean coast. Green aventurine, carnelian and turquoise are paired with watches in 18K everose, yellow and white gold respectively. The crystallised effects, matrices and veins peculiar to these decorative stones make every watch face a unique work of art. Individual finishing of each dial is then performed to satisfy the brand’s exacting quality requirements for gem-setting.


This new version of the Day-Date 36 brings an unexpected creative twist to one of its iconic models. The watch displays a new emotion every day in the form of inspirational words such as ‘Love’, ‘Peace’ and ‘Hope’ in the traditional day window. The date window, meanwhile, displays a repertoire of emotions expressed in 31 emojis designed especially for the model. The dial features a novel and colourful motif in the form of a puzzle, referring to the idea that life is a puzzle that we piece together every day, the resulting shapes of which forms a face of many hues. The multi-hued puzzle is made using the demanding champlevé enamelling technique by Rolex dial-makers.

Reproduced with permission from

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