Kenya-settled Nilotic semi-nomadic tribes, the Maasais and the Samburus, are slowly opening their doors to the modern world while remaining staunchly
Words and images by Ananya Ghosh
It was early in the morning, and the last day of my stay at Maasai Mara. Daniel Ole Soit, our driver and guide, was a man on a mission. We have not yet spotted the 5th and the most elusive of the Big Five, the rhino. And he has taken it as a personal failure!
Yesterday, he had welcomed me with a gorgeous sighting of another elusive inhabitant on the Maara, the leopard. Being a Maasai and having grown up here, Daniel knows these sprawling savanna and its inhabitants better than the back of his hand and has ancestral knowledge of tracking animals. He is almost like a human Google map here. “Most of the guides in the game drive (Game drives are the most popular way to explore the African savannas. While there are several types of game drives, most involve traveling in an open-top vehicle) are local Maasai people—they know all the wildlife corridors, they have insights on the animal behaviours, it is like their backyard,” informs our 39-year-old Maasai Messiah of sightings!
It is heartening to see that in Kenya, unlike in India, the local tribes are employed in such large numbers by the tourist resorts in the area. Not only does this add to building a sustainable infrastructure but also the knowledge and craftsmanship of the tribal population benefits these resorts greatly. “The relationship between Sarova Hotels and the local communities began in 1984 with the inception of Sarova Mara. The Maasai community’s presence at the resort is truly irreplaceable. Their deep ties to the land, and wildlife, and extensive knowledge of topography, fauna, flora, and conservation efforts are truly remarkable and inspire awe.
They have tracked and observed wildlife since childhood and hence the Maasai driver-guides make safaris an absolute dream with their expertise, sharp eyes, and depth of knowledge,” says Mita Vora, Director, Sarova Hotels and Resorts, Kenya.
The Smooth Operator
This is reflected in the ease with which he surreptitiously slid the massive jeep right under the hanging tail of the majestic mammal perched on a tree. The safari game drive guides, much like the forest guides at the National Parks in India, have a strong network and news of an animal spotting travels fast; within minutes there was a mini traffic jam with jeeps arriving with camera- toting tourists (this is the reason why having the right guide is crucial; if you are not among the first few to arrive, chances are that either the view would get blocked by other cars and cameras or the animal will just leave).
Post the leopard, who eventually got bored with all the undesired attention, and hid himself further inside the tree, we gorged on the sheer beauty of the land. Thankfully, unlike in Shaba, it wasn’t raining here and the weather was just right for the drive and also maybe for the animals to run errands– antelopes, deer, gazelle, impalas, and zebras all looked rather busy. But our drive was not without hindrance! Along the way, we got barricaded by a large herd of elephants, which were moving slower than Bangalore traffic and had quite a few bumbling and unruly kids along with a few with grandfatherly gravitas— it was a strange mix of the chaotic and the sombre!
After getting past the elephants, we had two prides of lions, one of which was in the middle of a family lunch and had 14 cubs of different sizes running along with one large male and three females (yes, they are staunch believers of the contemporary dating trend, Ethical non-monogamy), the other was a pride of around a dozen in various sizes enjoying a golden hour siesta. It was an overdose of lions! But the day had ended with a futile quest to spot a Rhino.
The chase and the counter-chase!
So, here we are. As we board the jeep, Daniel promptly unleashes his inner Schumacher and I brace myself. With his glistening Maasai beads from his neckpiece reflecting the early rays of sun through the front mirror, the bottles of beers and water clanging in the ice box with the impact of our bouncing 4×4 Toyota Land Cruiser Safari Jeep, and wild wind gushing in through the windows, there was no dearth of drama in this Bond-like chase scene.
But very soon the movie will change from a James Bond one to Twister! While we were in hot pursuit of the Rhino, oblivious to us, the sky had started to get overcast. Suddenly the car screeches and Daniel pulls a sharp 180-degree turn. And if that was possible, he starts driving even faster, but now we are turning back…has the Rhino changed location?
“There’s a storm ahead,” quips Daniel. “It is coming towards us and we can’t get caught in it. Here the storms are very intense.” He starts driving as fast as possible but the dust makes it difficult. Soon the huge, dark cumulonimbus cloud that was in hot pursuit of Daniel (probably sent by the god of the Rhinos to chase out intruders!), catches up and starts lashing the car with torrential rain. With the storm and the rain furiously smudging o the landscape and the dirt road, the mighty Daniel decides to give up and submit to Mother Nature. As we wait inside the car, I remember my previous day’s conversation with Daniel who had made this ominous forecast of heavy rains upon seeing the infestation of house flies in the Maasai village we had visited.
Apparently, the flies bring the news of rain. I had promptly dismissed it as a tribal superstition. Maybe some of what we dismiss as superstition are actually age-old knowledge preserved and passed through generations.
No Rhino, No Cry
The heavy downpour lasts for about 30 minutes and it is almost closing time. So, we give up our quest for the rhino and rush back towards the exit gate to avoid penalty. Daniel looked more crestfallen than me. By then, with extensive stays feasting on the beauty of the stunning landscapes and magnificent collection of wild animals of Shaba National Reserve, Lake Nakuru National Park, and Maasai Mara National Reserve for a week, and meeting the rather friendly Samburu and Maasai tribes, it was already a memorable trip and I am sure our chasing the rhino and in turn being chased back by a storm was far more dramatic than just spotting the elusive mammal!
The People of The Forests
Having visited almost all the national parks of Northern India my love and appreciation for forests and wildlife have only grown (I think I am one of the rare few who have managed to spot tigers in all visits!). But this trip to Kenya’s game reserves has been extra special. Not only because of the zebras and giraffes and the big 5 but also how the government along with the active participation of the locals and the resort owners have ensured that the negative impacts of excessive stress of tourism don’t rattle the natural inhabitants of the land, be it the animals or the indigenous tribes.
Just like in India, there are strict regulations enforced by rangers that dictate staying on designated road tracks, avoiding encroachment on wildlife spaces, and refraining from obstructing animal hunts. But what you don’t see in India, and what India needs to implement, is how the private resorts are working this closely with the locals to ensure a non-intrusive sustainable ecosystem.
A Fine Balance
While there aren’t strict rules governing resort engagement with communities, it’s been a significant cultural and social responsibility for key tourism players to support and involve these communities. “Local community constitutes 30 per cent of our employees at Maara. Sarova Shaba has 43 percent of community employment across the Northern tribes including the Samburu tribe. By involving them in wildlife protection efforts and sustainable practices including tree planting, communities become stakeholders in the preservation of the natural environment, creating a balance between tourism and conservation,” says Mita whose resorts at these game drives apart from putting extra emphasis on building and maintaining a sustainable and non-intrusive ecosystem, also run Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) initiatives focusing on education, health, and conservation of the local communities.
“Education is the key”
Education has played a huge role in this. The Maasai and the Samburu villages that I visited, all had primary and secondary schools nearby and have first-generation college-educated members who are now employed in various capacities at these resorts.
But Daniel points out that this is a recent development. “While I was growing up, there were not many schools around. People hardly went to schools and had proper jobs. Our traditional occupations included cattle trading, selling honey, and herbal medicines, among others; the women were confined to doing household chores and looking after the children and the cattle…they would indulge in beadworks to spend time. I had to walk 20 km to reach my school. Now we have a primary school (with about 1500 students) and a girl’s high school (with around 1000 students), near my village. The government has subsidies and even the nearby resorts support these schools,” he says.
“Education is the key to life. Today we work in the military, we work at resorts as managers and secretaries, how can we land those jobs if we are not educated? We have schools nearby and all the children of the community go to primary schools,” says Philip Ledeura, one of the English-educated village elders of Ltungai, a village situated close to Sarova Shaba Game Lodge along the Ewaso Nyiro River. If you are surprised by the Christian names of people of Samburu and Maasai tribes it is because the schools here are mostly run by missionaries and they give them a Christian name when they enroll. However, this does not denote a forced conversion, it is mostly because their tribal names are often very long and difficult to pronounce. Even if these children eventually choose to embrace Christianity, they don’t let go of the age-old traditions and rituals of their forefathers. There is no conflict between their acquired religion and the one they are born into ensuring a beautiful and harmonious amalgamation of the best of modern education with ancient knowledge.
“I was fascinated with the nature. We have grown up with animals. For Maasais, the knowledge of animals is in our blood. However, I decided to add professional qualifications to that and studied wildlife management. I went to Nairobi to finish my higher studies. Then I came back to my village and got a job at Sarova, I had the required educational documents. These resorts give priority to us while employing their staff but you need to have your papers. So, along with the knowledge I have inherited as a Maasai, I needed a formal education to land this job,” explains Daniel who has been working at the Sarova resort for over a decade now. Success stories like Daniel’s are instrumental in getting the Maasai and Samburu children throng to the schools.
Another big change education is bringing is the financial independence of the women, who traditionally have found themselves confined to childrearing and household chores. Both Samburu and Maasai tribes unapologetically and proudly still practise polygamy, child marriages, and genital mutilation of women.
One hopes financial independence of women will eventually help stop such practices passed on for generations as ‘tradition’. “I studied catering and accommodation and got a job at Sarova Shaba in January 2023 in housekeeping. I learned so much through the years. I was taught about having the ability to sustain yourself as an individual and a family. I learned that I did not need to get married at a young age and that I could make my own decisions and grow and thrive.
In my village, the next generation has also started going to school and ten boys have already completed until 4th standard,” says Hilda Ngisiamton, another Ltungai resident, who started going to school as a 10-year-old, and is now employed at the Sarova Shaba Game Lodge. Education has played a pivotal role in breaking language barriers. Most can speak English quite fluently. “Our mother tongue is Maa. In schools, you learn English and Swahili and that helps us communicate with the world outside our tribe,” explains Daniel.
Apart from providing the direct employment to the tribes that were traditionally solely dependent on pastoralism, what is even more appreciable is that the initiatives by these resorts also include preserving the traditions and culture of these tribes. “Today more than ever travellers see cultural immersion as a key part of the experience in foreign civilisations. This is wonderful for the tribes in the areas. Visits to their “manyattas” (traditional houses) allow tourists to learn about customs, traditions, and their humble daily way of living; they get the opportunity to witness traditional dances, music, and rituals gaining insights into the rich heritage of the communities. In turn, it provides an income for the villagers,” says Mita adding that these cultural visits also encourage the communities to take pride in their traditions and show them the importance of preserving these. “This leads to a sense of cultural identity and continuity for the younger generations; they value their heritage as they can see that it is also helping them earn a living.”
“We have settled close to these resorts as not only do they give us jobs and help us sustain ourselves, the tourist visits also help the community financially—the resorts pay us for the visits, and the tourists also buy our handicrafts. Most of our women are traditionally engaged in beadworks, and now they can sell those and earn money,” explains Philip.
The art of beadwork and traditional jewellery making is a unique craft deeply embedded in their culture and these are now coveted by tourists. “Hand made with precision and care these crafts, ranging from beaded jewellery, textiles, rags, and carvings showcase the cultural heritage of the tribes, and make for authentic souvenirs, providing direct economic benefits to the artisans and their families. As the appreciation for traditional crafts grows, there’s a likelihood of an increase in prominence for beadwork and jewellery making, preserving these intricate arts for future generations while also supporting local artisans,” adds Mita. With these modern Kenyan resorts collaborating with the ancient tribes to create a sustainable ecosystem while developing a tourism- dependent economy, it is time countries like India give such non- intrusive models a thought, especially while developing new tourism destinations like the northeastern regions and remote islands of the subcontinent which are home to a large chunk of indigenous tribes, like the Maasais and the Samburus.
The Samburu tribe, whom I met while staying near Samburu National Reserve, are closely related to the Maasais of Mara and were part of the same Nilotic ethnic group who had migrated from Nile Valley long ago. Theirs are patrilineal and polygynous societies and they speak languages that are both derived from Maa (in Maa, mara means spotted, that is how the landscape dotted with trees and shrubs looks from a distance…a spotted land). These semi- nomadic, pastoral communities, who have a strange obsession with colourful beads, are highly dependent on livestock and it is the livestock with which one’s wealth is measured.
According to one of the Samburu village elders, the more cows one owns the greater number of wives one can have/maintain, and in his words: “The number of wives depends on the number of cows a man owns; cattle are the marker of wealth here. If you are not rich how will you maintain your wives? I have cows and camels and sheep, I am rich; I have four wives. I need them to help me with the livestock I own. It is interdependent,” says Philip. “My dad had 10 wives and I have more than 100 siblings. My mother is his 6th wife. I know all my siblings, we all grew up together with all the mothers taking care of all the children as a community,” says Daniel adding “Maasais have many wives. The first wife is chosen by the father of the man, and then onwards you can pick your wives. The groom needs to pay dowry which is livestock, usually cows, to the bride’s parents as part of the marriage negotiation. So, of course, you need to be rich!”
Even their diet is dependent on cattle, especially cows, and no, it’s not for their meat (which is consumed on ceremonial occasions) as much as it is for their blood—one of the staples of their diet involves drinking raw blood drawn from cows, which is collected in a cup by piercing the jugular of the cow with an arrow or cutting it a bit (the cows are not killed, and the wounds are promptly sealed for healing) mixed with milk. On special occasions, just raw pure cow blood is drunk, it is considered to be good for health and their elixir for a longer life. “We give the young children raw blood during draught when nutrition is otherwise scarce. Raw blood is also given to the injured or after childbirth—we believe that when you drink cow’s blood you recover the blood you have lost,” says Daniel. However, the most appalling ritual practiced by these tribes is circumcision- -both men and women (although FGM is illegal in Kenya) are subjected to circumcision ceremony at puberty as a a rite of passage. Once circumcised, young men get the distinction of becoming ‘morans’ or warriors.
Reproduced with permission from Mansworldindia.com
