A recap of the hottest trends, iconic moments, and designer brilliance at Arka Fashion Week Summer 2024
By Tarin Fatema
As Dhaka started to empty out ahead of Eid-ul-Adha, the fashion forward headed towards Aloki in Tejgaon. The four days of Arka Fashion Week SS ’24 saw a diverse range of designs across four runway slots, each slot featured multiple brands, it was the place to be. With a vision to democratize fashion, Arka Fashion Week has made it a point to open each season with a student-led runway. The second edition of Arka Fashion Week began with the innovative work of 15 student designers, each presenting two contemporary outfits made from Tangail Tant textile, just like last year. This segment was expertly curated by designer Afsana Ferdousi.
AZ captivated the audience with a collection of 12 outfits, characterized by bold colors and oversized silhouettes. Particularly noteworthy striking green cropped vest paired with a high-waisted trouser. Thanks to the trouser’s pastel tie-dye pattern, the ensemble stands out on the runway, capturing attention with its unconventional color palette and mix of patterns. The look is brought together with a simple black belt cinched at the waist, adding structure to the fluidity of the trouser’s fabric.
Tori’s collection on the runway paid homage to the rich traditions of Dhaka while embracing new trends. Sixteen models graced the runway in avant-garde designs featuring corsetry, padded hips, sheer dresses, chiffon-masks, and doll-like makeup, all created using traditional Bengali textiles. From saree-like draping to exaggerated silhouettes, this collection defies all expectations.
Speaking of rule-defying collections, the next brand, Grissho, took things beyond fashion. Grissho, meaning ‘summer’ in Bengali, presented a gothic Lolita summer theme with garments adorned with laces, ruffles and bows that certainly challenged the status quo. The showstopper stole the spotlight. The audience gasped as she abruptly stopped, threw flowers at her partner and tore off her own clothes, revealing a new ensemble—a metamorphosis right before our eyes. She then continued down the runway alone. It was a narrative of rebellion, transformation, and unapologetic self-expression.
Amira’s latest collection aimed to redefine eastern wear by infusing it with a western flair. The runway opened with the spirited motto, “Who says eastern wear can’t be fun?” This theme of joyous rebellion ran through each piece, as the collection showcased a daring mix of colors, patterns, and silhouettes that brought a fresh and exciting perspective to classic eastern attire.
The highlight of day 2 at Arka Fashion Week for me was Bibi Russell’s showcase. Her eternal love for gamchas was underscored in this collection. The designs were a testament to timeless elegance, seamlessly blending traditional elements with contemporary style. The clean lines and minimalist details harmonized with a color palette reminiscent of sunset hues—purples and reds rendered in tie-dye. The models adorned LED lights, further enhancing the effect.
The runway then transitioned to Anikini by Humaira Khan, a display of intricate hand block and stitchwork that spoke to the meticulous attention to detail. Humaira Khan Couture followed, with its array of opulent fabrics setting a luxurious tone.
Aranya’s ‘Colors of Symphony’ collection was an artful mix of relaxed and structured silhouettes. Everything was organically dyed in shades of marigold and indigo. The looks were very balanced, as something plain or structured like a cami top was paired with something flowy like a loose-fitted trouser or a very romantic multi-tiered skirt. The standout piece for me was the yellow ankle-length dress which immediately caught the eye with its stunning color. Designed with a halter style, the dress drapes elegantly around the neck, the A-line cut of the dress made the fabric flow gracefully and the ruffled bottom added a touch of playfulness, creating a charming visual both on and off the runway.
One Thousand Poets’s collection ‘Bezni’ was a celebration of femininity and tradition. The designer, Iftekar Noor was inspired by a heartfelt conversation he had with his mother about Reshmi Churi, centered the entire collection around glass bangles. The saree-like fluidity of the gowns and dresses accentuated with bangles, using an array of techniques, such as, breaking or bending them into new shapes, wrapping it in tulle, manipulating fabric through the constraints of the fabric etc. What sets the outfits apart is the headpiece. The beautifully sheer fabric that covers the models’ face, adorned with broken bangle pieces.
Strides Co. took over the runway next, as models strutted down the runway with confidence and sophistication in power suits and dresses in a palette of earthy neutrals, true neutrals, black, and deep blues. The collection also included summer suiting inspired by the safari aesthetic, including contemporized cargo pants and cuban cut shirts.
BD Clothing’s latest streetwear offerings featured bold graphics and deshi iconography. The stage came alive during BD Clothing’s fashion show when the rapper Asiful Islam, popularly known as Black Zang stepped onto the stage in the brand’s signature Hawaiian cut shirt. What set this ensemble apart was the intricate Bangladeshi text that covered the entire fabric. While the models got ready to walk the runway, the rapper’s performance set up the mood for the show.
Tapered opened the show with a mesmerizing contemporary ballet performance, what followed is models wearing statement shirts, safari jackets and finely tailored pants, ensembled with designs that are infused with the designer’s own personal stories. The collection bridged the gap between bespoke and designer, creating a charming fusion that resonates with both elegance and innovation.
Later, Taan’s line up was a captivating visual feast. The sustainably crafted garments, woven from hand-spun cotton, silk, and recycled fabrics—can only be called wearable art. The sheer fabrics, intricate ruching, delicate pintucks, and silhouettes drew inspiration from our deltaic topography. As the models gracefully walked the runway, their barefooted presence added an organic touch to the entire presentation.
Strides Fashion Wear’s collection was a love letter to Bangladesh’s Pop-culture, a fusion of heritage and modernity. The men’s clothings included tailored suits and shorts adorned with Rickshaw art on the lapel, while womenswear ranged from flowing dresses to structured ensembles. Each piece showcased a color palette of warm earth tones and contrasting neutrals, paired with bold, expressive prints. All models were carrying a steel box in hand which added a local flair to the runway.
Minimalism is as good as gone from the fashion scene and brands everywhere are fully embracing it. However, R Rahman’s new designs offered a refreshing take on minimalism. The elevated pieces were flowy, breezy, and versatile, which made them perfect for layering. There’s also a slight ethnic twist to them, allowing the wearer to dress it up or down depending on the occasion.
AMI’s collection on the runway was a kaleidoscope of bright, urban colors, bold graphic prints, futuristic, genderfluid designs. In a powerful display of solidarity, AMI’s latest collection pays homage to Palestinian resistance with three distinct ensembles. Asad Sattar, the creative director for the brand intentionally blended fashion and activism, capturing the spirit of a resilient nation.
From the children’s games the models played on the catwalk to Thakumar Jhuli’s Shakchunni walking down the runway as the showstopper, Glee’s collection ‘Grissher Chuti’ aimed to transport its audience right back to childhood. This wearable collection consists of playful, ready-to-wear outfits that are flattering on all body types.
Followed by, Chhap’s quintessential summer collection, in which the designer seamlessly used a lot of traditional folk motifs in their block prints on modern silhouettes. Chhap even featured a live flute player which added a charm to the runway experience.
Rânow, on the other hand, delivered a bold statement showcasing a collection of twelve exquisite gowns. The brand, renowned for its distinctive creations that empower the wearer and celebrate individuality, presented a breathtaking array of flowing silk, luxurious satin, and delicate lace creations.
Daania’s eight-outfit collection went beyond typical streetwear, showcasing oversized jackets, hoodies, and more, all ingrained with a deeper meaning. Four of the eight looks incorporated F1 themes, leading up to a show-stopping F1 racer jacket.
The denim trendsetter, Twills Original lived up to their name with a collection that celebrated all things denim. They presented a selection of denim-on-denim styles, playing around with washes, textures, and silhouettes.
Adding a twist to the show, The Vibes Are Lemons surprised attendees with nine models in vibrant neon summer outfits such as bucket hats, cropped tops and jackets, shorts, graphic jeans etc. Also, in a surprise collaboration between Daania and Twills Original, the brands jointly presented a collection featuring four brand new looks on the runway, each displaying a distinct blend of the two designers’ aesthetics.
At the last show I attended, Royal Bengal couture brought wearable stories to the runway. The creative designer, Saifullah Galib incorporated deshi elements into his designs in a way that blurred the lines between couture and streetwear wear. The closing fashion show schedule included Guzel, Bahar, and Kathal. Regrettably, press entry was not allowed, but based on what I’ve heard, the collections were equally captivating.
