What lies there beyond Kangchenjunga?
By Ayman Anika
As the northernmost district of Bangladesh, Panchagarh whispers promises of serenity, natural beauty, and a sprinkle of mystery. I had heard tales of its sprawling tea gardens, historical water bodies, and – on lucky days – the majestic Kangchenjunga revealing herself like a shy bride.
With these images imprinted in my mind, I packed my bag for a weekend of exploration, curiosity tingling in my veins.The crisp afternoon air greeted me as my train rolled into Panchagarh. Unlike the chaos of Dhaka, this small district exudes a slow-paced charm that immediately puts one at ease. It’s a place where nature and simplicity take center stage, o ering a gentle escape from the overwhelming rhythm of city life.
Tea Gardens: A Symphony in Green
I started my journey with the tea gardens – the pride of Panchagarh. The Kazi & Kazi Tea Estate was at the top of my list. As I strolled through the estate, the rows of neatly trimmed tea bushes rolled out like verdant carpets, punctuated by the occasional shade tree.
The tea estate with its small cottages, however, was more than a visual treat. They were a space to breathe, reflect, and admire how human ingenuity can coexist with nature’s splendor.
A glimpse of history: Maharaja’s Dighi
Next on my itinerary was the Maharaja’s Dighi, a historical water body surrounded by myths and local legends. As I approached, the tranquil waters reflected the azure sky, broken only by the ripples of a kingfisher diving for its prey. The dighi was said to have been dug centuries ago by a local king to provide water for his subjects.
Standing on its banks, I felt a connection to the past. The calm waters seemed to hold whispers of history, of the people who once depended on this life-giving reservoir. Villagers still come here to fetch water, wash clothes, or simply share a moment of quietude under the banyan trees that line the dighi’s edges.
I lingered longer than I had planned, captivated by the rustic simplicity of the scene. Here, history felt alive, not confined to books or museums but integrated into the daily lives of the people.
Tetulia Picnic Spot: A slice of heaven
No trip to Panchagarh is complete without visiting the Tetulia Picnic Spot. Nestled along the banks of the Mahananda River, this spot o ers breathtaking views of Kangchenjunga on clear days. I had hoped for a glimpse of Kangchenjunga, but the clouds had other plans.
Even without the mountain, the view was mesmerizing. The river flowed lazily, its waters shimmering under the midday sun, while the hills in the distance added a touch of mystique to the landscape. Families had gathered for picnics, their laughter mingling with the songs of birds and the rustle of leaves in the gentle breeze.
Sitting on a bench, watching the river and listening to the symphony of nature, I felt an overwhelming sense of peace. It was a reminder that sometimes, the journey matters more than the destination.
Reflections on the road back
As my time in Panchagarh drew to a close, I felt a tinge of disappointment at not seeing Kangchenjunga.
But this feeling was fleeting, quickly replaced by gratitude for the experiences I had gathered. Panchagarh had o ered me more than I had expected – its tea gardens a testament to nature’s artistry, its historical sites a bridge to the past, and its people a reminder of the enduring warmth of human connection.
Would I return? Absolutely. Next time, perhaps Kangchenjunga will grace me with her presence. But even if she doesn’t, I know Panchagarh will have more stories to tell, more secrets to share, and more moments to etch into my heart.
For now, I carry its essence with me, tucked away like a cherished memory, ready to unfold whenever I need a reminder of life’s simple, enduring beauty.
Getting there and where to stay
Panchagarh may be far from the bustling cities of Bangladesh, but it’s surprisingly accessible. I chose to travel by train – a 12-hour overnight journey from Dhaka to Panchagarh.
For those looking to save time, flights are available to Saidpur Airport, from where a two-hour drive will take you to Panchagarh.
During my stay, I chose a modest hotel in Tetulia, a small town known for its peaceful atmosphere and proximity to many attractions. My room costing Tk 1,500 per night, was simple yet cozy, with all the basic amenities I needed. Tetulia also o ers other small hotels and guesthouses, making it easy for travelers with varying budgets to find a place to stay. While the options aren’t luxurious, the warm hospitality more than makes up for it.
