Sumaya Khan’s SS24 collection ‘Noor’ is a love letter to resistance
By Sabrina Fatma Ahmad
The ongoing conflict in Palestine is something that has made a deep impression on people in Bangladesh. No matter how much or how little one knows about the complicated geopolitics that have sustained the ongoing violence, it is the resilience of the Palestinian people that continues to inspire others to find ways to act, whether by attempting to increase one’s understanding of facts through research, taking to social media to combat the waves of disinformation at play, organizing fundraisers, or many different ways, big and small.
Sumaya Khan is no stranger to resilience. Since the launch of her eponymous fashion label in 2019, she has experienced personal loss and continued a battle with cancer, and yet her brand has managed to weather the two years of the pandemic and its economic fallout, and continues to cultivate a growing fanbase of repeat customers who swear by her comfortable, timeless, and endlessly practical fits. A look at her social media activity this past year has shown that she, too, has been following the current events, and there is no better insight into how she feels about the issues than in her latest luxury pret collection Noor.
“I was alone in the hospital for long stretches of time this year, with not much to do but helplessly watch the news,” says Sumaya. “I was in such incredible pain for so much of it, but I saw these people who have lost so much, and have so little help, but they remain resolute through it all – it lit a fire inside me. I’m not good with words. Fashion is how I express myself, and so I put all my emotions and concerns into Noor.”
“Fashion is how I express myself. I pour all my thoughts and emotions into the clothes I design” ~ Sumaya Khan
The collection, which features over thirty unique pieces, is the first major collection in over a year. The palette adheres to the colors of the Palestine flag, with a few options rendered in earthy, desert hues. The silhouettes range from billowy kaftans, capes, long kurtas, and dresses, reminiscent of traditional thobes, to the designer’s signature classic fits, and a number of boldly experimental cuts, all rendered in locally sourced fabric. Aside from summer-friendly cotton, there is a generous use of Rajshahi raw silk, fine muslin, with some surprise flashes of ornate filigree lace, something she used to stunning effect when debuting her ‘Aynaghor’ shoe line.
“All my major collections are based on locally sourced Bangladeshi fabrics. I want to keep as small a footprint as possible, but also support our local textiles”
It’s in the details that the magic really comes alive. Motifs like date palms, mosques, olive trees, and pomegranates appear, rendered in beading, sequins, and applique work. Traditional tatreez patterns, brass coin fringes with Arabic lettering, find their way into South Asian silhouettes, with a few flashes of the Bengal tiger on some of the ensembles. Gauzy dupattas are weighted down by heavy fringes, recalling both a breezy night in the desert, and heads bowed in supplication.
“I’d like to think my designs are more emotional than political, more cultural than following any doctrine. I consider myself a spiritual person that way”
Viewed in its entirety, the collection feels like a conversation between a proudly Bangladeshi designer, and a people with a culture and tradition rooted in history, and yet on an individual level, when one considers each stand-alone piece, it also feels very fresh and contemporary. As always, the strength of a Sumaya Khan Couture outfit is in its construction and functionality. The clothes move beautifully, and are created with comfort in mind. Whatever the designer had been dreaming of when dreaming up these garments, the wearer can slip them on and bring their own flair to the outfit.
The connection Sumaya feels to the resistance goes beyond merely drawing inspiration for her own gain; a percentage of the proceeds from each garment will be donated to organizations working to provide relief and aid to refugees.
“In Arabic, ‘Noor’ means ‘Light.’ The Palestinians have long demonstrated how to follow the light of hope with faith and courage. I have dedicated ‘Noor’ to express my support and appreciation for their bravery”
Sumaya Khan Studio is located in Road 18, House 15, Block A, Banani, Dhaka.
