The restaurateur gets chatty about pivoting Mumbai’s thriving F&B scene through the concept of clean eating
By Pooja Prabbhan Srijith
For most of us, the idea of mouthing a spoonful of veggies isn’t exciting by a large mile. However, reasons of health, environmentalism, morality, and safety have led a legion of devout meat eaters onto a path of vegetarianism, whether temporarily or otherwise. Given the burgeoning trend of vegetarianism and veganism over the recent years, and more so in the year 2024 (several trend predictors have underscored the long- term sustainability aspect of the meatfree trend, with consumers becoming increasingly aware of their food choices), entrepreneur Vedant Shah embarked on an experiential culinary pursuit— Plural, Mumbai’s first contemporary Southeast Asian restaurant, in the year 2021, with the focus on coming up with culinary renditions made using freshly sourced vegetables. “Our ethos at Plural is to celebrate vegetables, putting them at the forefront. Rather than attempting to come up with able meat substitutes, we came to highlight the freshness of locally sourced vegetables,” shares Shah, whose most recent o ering showcases fine-tuned Vietnamese classics such as the Summer Roll, Banh Mi, Pho’ by sticking to the book and yet coming up with novel creations of its own.
What inspired you to transition from a career in industrial engineering and healthcare to becoming a restaurateur?
Vedant Shah: I have always been very passionate about food and beverage. Even whilst studying industrial engineering and spending a year working in healthcare, I spent most of my time perusing through menus and travelling for the love of food. I had one eye on the family business but increasingly felt that food was my calling and as a result decided to move back with the view to pivot to the F&B space. Shortly after my moving back, we were struck by the first pandemic and the rest of course, is history. While this period was very debilitating, benefit was that it give me the time and bandwidth to work on my idea. With that in mind, I went to the white board (quite literally) and worked on creating Plural.
What motivated your decision to focus specifically on vegetarian cuisine?
VS: Vegetarianism and veganism are both burgeoning due to a confluence of many factors. Reasons of health, environmentalism, morality and safety have led a legion of devout meat eaters on to a path of vegetarianism, whether temporarily or otherwise. Dietary restrictions and in some cases preferences of our target demographic in the locality often bend toward vegetarianism. Moreover, our ethos at Plural is to celebrate vegetables, putting them at the forefront. Rather than attempting to come up with able meat substitutes, we came to highlight the freshness of locally sourced vegetables.
How did you go about creating a menu that blends authenticity with a vegetarian twist?
VS: Reconciling the use of local produce with authenticity was at the crux of the challenge in hand. Over copious research and trial and error, we have, I’d like to believe, preserved a sense of authenticity. Over time, we’ve showcased and fine- tuned Vietnamese classics such as the Summer Roll, Banh Mi, Pho’ etc. sticking to the book and come up with novel creations of our own.
Plural is known for its environmentally conscious ethos. How do you integrate sustainability into your restaurant operations?
VS: The cardinal rule of sustainability is that it is a mindset and not a process. At Plural, we work on sustainability in an iterative fashion, aiming for continuous improvement. Some of our initiative include:
1) The use of Eco conscious materials in the packaging and decor such as reusable coasters, Bagasse bags, cane baskets etc.
2) The utilisation of the entirety of the ingredient, often discarded ingredients and leftovers. Frying mixed left over herbs, using stems for dips and broths, frying the skins of brussel sprouts as garnish, making a vinaigrett out of garlic greens, dehydrating mushroom trimmings and guava pulp for cocktails are some examples.
What are some signature dishes at Plural that you feel best represent the restaurant’s philosophy?
VS: We have a host of dishes that land themselves to our philosophy; that said, some of my favourites are Lemongrass Soup, Pomelo Salad, Bitter Pomelo, Seared Brussels Sprouts, Artichoke Bao, Tofu Banh Mi, Mi Kieu Mach, Roasted Cauliflower, and Laksa Curry.
What have been some of the biggest challenges you’ve faced as a young restaurateur in the competitive Mumbai dining scene?
VS: Rents that are disproportionately high in relation to people’s propensity to spend their disposable income, an unwillingness to have faith in the concept/ going in with too many preconceived nations, inconsistency in quality of produce, excessive licenses and regulations, mobility and road traffic issues, needless substitution and modification requests in dishes, supply besting demand are some of the many challenges I have faced thus far.
What role can restaurateurs play in reshaping the restaurant industry, particularly in terms of sustainability?
VS: Knowledge should be in the ‘open domain’; whilst IP (Intellectual Property) can and must be protected at the concept level, a flow of knowledge for common things such as vendors, suppliers, agencies etc. is imperative so that restaurants can flourish in a thriving ecosystem. That would be the true meaning of collaboration, as opposed to merely doing menus/takeovers with peers you gel with professionally/personally. Collectively giving patronage to local farmers and purveyors, reducing import of ingredients thereby reducing carbon footprint, using LEAN methods to minimise waste are ways in which the industry can be more sustainable and collaborative.
Looking ahead, what are your aspirations for Plural? Are there any new concepts or expansions you are exploring?
VS: I’d want Plural to truly set itself apart and carve out a niche in our highly competitive dining landscape. My hope is to open a couple of more outlets in the near future, with the eventual aim of having a diverse portfolio of restaurants.
Reproduced with permission from Mansworldindia.com
