Your ultimate guide to navigating the Pink City, with insider recommendations from locals who know it best

By MW Desk

At the launch of the Museum of Meenakari Heritage by jeweller Sunita Shekhawat in Jaipur last year, hotelier Abhimanyu Singh Alsisar called the Pink City ‘the Paris of the east’. Or, “Paris from the La Belle Époque era,” more specifically, adds Devisha Kumari Singh, a technology entrepreneur, investor and cultural ambassador of the city. Having made more than a few trips to Jaipur in the last couple of years myself, I’d liken its spirit to Marrakech, where the patina of the old still lingers heavily in the air. But if you know where to look, there is enough eclecticism to hold sway over the modern traveller too.

A room at boutique hotel The Johri

The fact that Jaipur has captured the mind of global visitors, everyone from Jackie Kennedy to Dua Lipa and Pierpaolo Piccioli, for decades now isn’t exactly news. But what has been grabbing headlines (and eyes) in recent times is this renewed spirit that has put the city at the heart of the cultural zeitgeist. While Jaipur’s royal heritage continues to be a big draw, it’s not for a stuck-in-time appeal. Instead, it has transformed into “a seamless fusion of heritage and modernity, where tradition and innovation are coming together in the most captivating way,” adds Singh. This duality of the old versus the new isn’t one at war here. Rather, it has come together beautifully to paint a new picture, Jaipur 2.0. Where the bygone and the present mingle with complete ease in each other’s company.

Villa Palladio Jaipur, a boutique hotel on the outskirts of the city

“This renaissance is driven by a dynamic mix of factors. One major influence is the influx of new talent: designers, artists, and the next generation of locals with global exposure,” feels Yogesh Chaudhary, director of the renowned Jaipur Rugs, who has been raised in the city. On the one hand, there are the families behind the city’s most iconic brands, especially jewellers, such the Kasliwals of Gem Palace, Aroras of Amrapali, and Shekhawats of Sunita Shekhawat among others infusing modernity into cultural conversations. And then there’s a mix of creative expats like Dutch interior designer Marie-Anne Oudejans, Kuwaiti-Indian designer and entrepreneur Tahir Sultan, textile designer Rosanna Falconer, restaurateur Barbara Miolini of Bar Palladio fame and French designer Thierry Journo who give the city’s creative scene a cosmopolitan update. “This fresh wave of creativity is helping contemporise traditional crafts, bringing a modern edge to Jaipur’s rich artistic heritage. There is a strong emphasis on cultural expression and collaboration,” adds Chaudhary.

Add to that the endeavours by the Jaipur’s royal family, most of them spearheaded by the sibling duo of Sawai Padmanabh Singh and Princess Gauravi Kumari, who are bringing a fresh perspective to the city’s historic lineage.

So, what does this mean for the average globetrotter?

A dynamic, buzzing destination with “immersive art spaces, boundary-pushing gastronomy and a burgeoning fashion and design scene beyond its architectural marvels and timeless grandeur,” believes Singh. We bring you the insider-approved guide to explore it.

The Ultimate Black Book

Stay: There is no dearth of palace hotels to really get a taste of that royal life here, such as the iconic Rambagh Palace, Jaipur and Rajmahal Palace Raas Jaipur. Airbnb even lets you book a suite inside the City Palace. If you’re willing to move to the city’s fringes, options for palace hotels are more abundant. Take your pick from Raffles Jaipur, The Leela Palace Jaipur, Anantara Jewel Bagh Jaipur Hotel, The Oberoi Rajvilas, Jaipur, Fairmont Jaipur and Alila Fort Bishangarh to name a few.

But to truly experience the pulse of the city, check into one of its many charming boutique properties: award-winning The Johri by restaurateur and hotelier Abhishek Honawar and jeweller Siddharth Kasliwal, who also run 28 Kothi.

Villa Palladio is an eclectic country estate with views of the Aravallis. You can also consider Laalee Jaipur, quaint homestay 47 Jobner Bagh or the newly opened Padmaa Jaipur, a 300-year-old haveli turned hotel.

Eat & Drink: Honawar, who spends his time between New York and India, is inspired by the city’s vibrancy, culture and ability to tell a story. His latest launch, The Sarvato & The Gallery Cafe, finds a home in the very heart of Jaipur: the City Palace. The experiential restaurant with a tasting menu and cocktail bar inside the palace compound is a collaboration with Sawai Padmanabh Singh, and offers diners sweeping views of the royal residence, that also houses multi-cuisine restaurant Baradari. As you venture out, stop for a vegetarian meal or quick cocktail at The Johri, with its reimagined local favourites. The recently launched 1932 Trevi serves Italian and Indian fare, Café White Sage offers a mix of global favourites, as does Jaipur Modern Kitchen. Chinese restaurant and whiskey bar Swinton House is a spot locals swear by, as is rooftop bar Paro. Native Cocktail Room has become a newfound favourite for its award-winning concoctions. Bar Palladio in the Narain Niwas Palace Hotel, by Swiss Italian entrepreneur Barbara Miolini and designed by Marie-Anne Oudejans, is an icon of the city’s nightlife. Polo Palladio, tucked away inside the Rajasthan Polo Club, has been creating a buzz too.

Shop: From block prints to blue pottery, there is much you can take back from Jaipur. Including contemporary takes on the city’s artisanal crafts. Jaipur is also the origin of some of the best fashion and jewellery labels in the country. When it comes to precious baubles, prepare to be spoiled for choice. Take your pick from Amrapali, Gem Palace, Raniwala 1881, Sunita Shekhawat, Tallin Jewels, Umrao Jewels and more. If it’s fashion jewellery you’re after, Teatro Dhora and Kilchu guarantee unique finds. Or head to Kesya for buttons for your bandhgala. Find clothes to match, most with a hat tip to the region’s block printing, at The Raw India, Parampara, The PDKF Store, Idli, Anokhi and Nila House or Andraab for collectible shawls. The Palace Atelier concept store by Princess Gauravi Kumari houses a special in-house line alongside other homegrown brands. The compound at Hotel Narain Niwas Palace is home to a cluster of shops in one spot, including Hot Pink, Tokree and Jaipur Rugs. Khanoom is great for ceramics, and the house- proud man will also want to make pit stops at Ecru and Makaan.

A Day At The City Palace

The continuous efforts of the royal family are geared towards making the heritage of the city part of the global cultural landscape. While the young royals are known to host glitterati and celebrities from around the world for their private soirees, there are also several public initiatives where locals and visitors can partake.

Jaipur is already the backdrop for The Jaipur Literature Festival, as well as Jaipur Arts Week, the flagship initiative of Public Arts Trust of India (PATI) founded by Sana Rezwan.

The latest addition is the Jaipur Centre for Art (JCA) co-founded by Sawai Padmanabh Singh and Noelle Kadar, which opened doors at the City Palace last November.

The opening show curated by Peter Nagy featured the works of artists like Anish Kapoor, Sean Scully and Hiroshi Sugimoto. January also marked the fifth edition of The Sculpture Park at Jaigarh Fort, that will remain open till October this year. The 300-year-old fort also hosts the annual Jaigarh Heritage Festival packed with musical performances, heritage walks and art installations, while being backed by the royal family. And just last month, PDKF (The Princess Diya Kumari Foundation) hosted an Artisan Collective in the palace’s main square to spotlight artisanal brands and conversations around female entrepreneurship.

According to Honawar, “the royal family has played a crucial role” in pushing this narrative of the new spirit of Jaipur in the last few years, “whether it is with polo, fashion, art or culture. They have used their real estate to create a cultural epicentre for the city.”

WHAT THE LOCALS RECOMMEND

“The Polo Bar at Rambagh Palace, Jaipur is my hidden favourite. I love going there for a quiet martini with nobody else around.”
—Abhishek Honawar, hotelier and restaurateur

“For those looking to take home authentic Jaipur craftsmanship, Brigitte Singh Home, for their famous block prints, is a must-visit.”
—Yogesh Chaudhary, director, Jaipur Rugs

The Sculpture Park at Jaigarh Fort is an open-air exhibition that redefines the dialogue between contemporary art and heritage. The current edition showcases three-dimensional works by 11 artists, seamlessly integrating modern creativity with Jaipur’s historic architecture.”
—Devisha Kumari Singh, technology entrepreneur, investor, and cultural ambassador

“The by-appointment studio of Khanoom Jaipur houses some of the most beautiful handmade pottery and ceramics.”
—Marie-Anne Oudejans, interior designer.

Reproduced with permission from Mansworldindia.com