Back in 2015, on the occasion of the brand’s 260th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin unveiled the Reference 57260, a pocket watch made-to-order for a collector considered the most complicated in the world with no fewer than 57 complications, including Gregorian, Judaic, and lunar calendars. At this year’s Watches and Wonders, Vacheron Constantin, almost nonchalantly, announced that they had broken their record, with the new Constantin Berkley Grand Complication’s 63 complications. Despite the ten entire years that went into the construction of this chunky, awe-inspiring feat of engineering— one of which was reserved just for parts assembly—it was a subtle, shimmering timepiece that caught the eye of many onlookers this year; one continued the marque’s maxim of ‘build it, and they will come’
By Sharan Sanil
Vacheron Constantin’s latest addition to the Traditionnelle line, the Tourbillon Chronograph Excellence Platine, is a watch for those who appreciate the finer things without needing to shout about it. Limited to just 50 pieces, this timepiece was revealed at Watches and Wonders 2024 and is part of the brand’s Collection Excellence Platine, which basically means it’s all about platinum—case, dial, crown, buckle, and everything in between.
At 42.5mm in diameter and only 11.7mm thick, the case is hefty without feeling oversized, striking a decent balance for a watch that houses both a tourbillon and a monopusher chronograph. As expected from Vacheron, the case is fully polished, letting the platinum gleam without being too in-your-face. The fluted caseback is a nice touch as well, giving you something to admire even when it’s off the wrist.
Moving to the dial, it’s made from a single piece of platinum and finished with a finely grained texture that subtly catches the light. The Pt950 hallmark at 4:30 is a low-key flex for those who know their materials—Platinum 950 refers to a type of platinum alloy that contains 95 per cent pure platinum and 5 per cent other metals, typically cobalt, iridium, or ruthenium.
This combination enhances the durability, strength, and wear resistance of the naturally soft platinum while maintaining its signature luster and hypoallergenic properties. The hands are dauphine-style, with a smart half-polished, half-micro- blasted finish that makes it easier to read, and the blued chronograph hands add a nice contrast. The layout itself keeps things functional—tourbillon at 12 o’clock, a 45-minute chronograph at 3, and a power reserve indicator at 6. There’s a bit of asymmetry between the logo and subdial placements, but it adds character without feeling off-balance.
What really stands out is the tourbillon. Instead of the usual 6 o’clock position, Vacheron places it right at the top at 12, with its Maltese cross-shaped carriage proudly displayed. The small seconds indicator is built into the tourbillon, adding a subtle layer of complexity to the movement. The fact that it takes 12 hours to polish the conical suspension bar for the tourbillon speaks volumes about the craftsmanship here, without needing to scream about it. Powering this watch is Vacheron’s in-house Calibre 3200, a manual-winding movement first introduced in 2015.
It’s not just a regular movement with some complications tacked on, rather, it was designed from the ground up for this combination of a tourbillon and monopusher chronograph. It beats at a leisurely 2.5Hz, with a 65-hour power reserve, and comes with the Geneva Seal, essentially a stamp of approval for top-tier finishing. The chronograph mechanism, operated through a single pusher integrated into the crown, features a friction-drive lateral clutch that ensures smooth engagement, and the column wheel adds that extra bit of class with another Maltese cross insignia.
The strap (pictured above) is a dark blue alligator leather, typical of the Traditionnelle range, but with a twist—the stitching is made from silk braided with platinum thread. It’s an over-the-top detail, but one that speaks to Vacheron’s attention to craftsmanship. (Just don’t ask how much it costs to replace.)
Christian Selmoni, Vacheron Constantin’s Style & Heritage Director, sums it up nicely when talking about the movement: “Calibre 3200 features a classic construction, and it refers to timepieces from the 1930s and 1940s… watches equipped with these calibres quickly earned a first-rate reputation.” That historical connection is key to understanding this watch—while it’s packed with modern technology and design, there’s a deep respect for tradition that runs through every part of its construction.
All in all, the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Excellence Platine is a serious watch for serious collectors. With the severely limited 50-piece issue, it’s not the kind of watch you’ll see on every wrist, but for those who get their hands on one, it’s an understated yet impressive piece of horological art that’s bound to age extremely well.
“The collection welcomes not necessarily
new models, but timepieces worthy of
particular interest, unified by the use of
exceptional platinum for exceptional
watches” —Style & Heritage Director,
Christian Selmoni
Reproduced with permission from Mansworldindia.com
